Coastal towns have a built-in charm, and that’s especially evident along the Cowichan coast. From north to south you’ll come across Ladysmith, Chemainus, and Crofton, a trio of towns following the Trans-Canada highway. Mining, forestry, and paper mill industries have been economic drivers in the region, though it would be a disservice to reduce its value down to business. Beyond the enterprises of past and present, the three towns all hold a unique appeal, with a never-ending selection of activities to pique your interest.
With little more than 20 kilometres separating the towns at either end, you might be tempted to visit all of them in a day. And while that’s feasible, you’ll be rewarded if you stick around longer than a quick drive through. Give yourself a few days to visit the three towns and their surroundings, and you’ll find plenty of surprises along the way. Whether you enjoy lounging on the beach, going for multi-hour hikes to viewing points and waterfalls, or sipping on a chilled pint with tasty food, you’ll be satisfied by your trip.
Ladysmith by the sea
In Ladysmith, you’ll have ample options to explore the waterfront or forest, which flank either side of the town centre. Transfer Beach Park by the harbour is the perfect stop whether you’re travelling solo or with kids in tow. A playground complete with a spray park keeps children entertained, while the grassy expanse and Salish Sea beckon you to lounge around or go for a dip. Sealegs Kayaking operates daily throughout the summer for all of your kayak and stand-up paddle board rental needs. The nearby outdoor amphitheatre hosts various live music events throughout the summer, making it easy to spend the day.
Hiking around town
Ladysmith is home to several hiking trails, with easier stretches and more advanced loops that will leave you catching your breath. Stroll along the Estuary Trail and Marine Walk by Transfer Beach Park without breaking a sweat, or take it up a notch by following Holland Creek Trail along either side of the creek. Check out key stops like Crystal Falls and the Colliery Dams, or plan your visit in the fall when the creek becomes a site for salmon spawning.
The Heart Lake Loop requires strong cardiovascular fitness, featuring some notably steep stretches. It’s worth it though, as you’ll be privy to some of the best views of the town, Mount Baker, and the neighbouring Gulf Islands. To really get your blood pumping, combine the hike with the Stocking Lake Trail, which connects at two points.
Heritage and culture
If your idea of a hike includes stopping for coffee and a pastry, the Heritage Walk is designed with you in mind. The Artifacts segment of the walk puts a spotlight on the area’s coal mining, forestry, rail, and marine industries, with a portion along the waterfront. In town, the Buildings section of the walk shows off numerous facades along First Avenue and surrounding streets. Several buildings were brought from the Nanaimo area and rebuilt in place at the start of the 1900s.
First Avenue was named a Great Street in 2017 by Great Places in Canada, notably for its well-kept historic facades, lush landscaping, and accessible layout, allowing passersby to casually stroll from shop to shop without any destination in mind. The street houses plenty of appealing businesses, and between the art galleries, Ladysmith Museum, boutiques, bakeries, and restaurants, there are numerous ways to wile away the time.
Get your fill
Don’t miss out on the selection of cinnamon buns, breads, pies, and pastries at the Old Town Bakery or get a frozen treat across the street at Old Town Ice Cream. Next door, Wild Poppy Market is a necessary stop for fresh ready-to-go meals and tasty gluten-free goods. Plantitude checks off all of your plant-based foods needs, highlighting local organic farmers in every bite. As evening rolls around, sit down with a craft cocktail and some pub grub at Zack’s Lounge, or savour a heart-warming meal at Indian Palate Restaurant. Beer lovers won’t want to miss Bayview Brewing, a locally owned and operated brewery with casual food options.
Making your way to Chemainus
To make the short route from Ladysmith to Chemainus more interesting, try cycling along the Cowichan Valley Trail. On the way, stop at Stocking Creek Park and check out the waterfall or one of the various trails.
With its picturesque homes, dazzling murals, and immediate proximity to water, Chemainus might look more like a town out of a storybook than a place where people live. Once you pause and take a stroll around, walk through the Public Market, or have a chat with the local farmers and artisans at the Wednesday Farmers Market, you’ll feel its character shining through.
Willow Street features charming architecture that’s as functional as it is aesthetic, with bakeries, restaurants, boutiques, and more, showing off a multitude of local treats. Further, you’ll find the Public Market, a hub of local creativity, with stalls including a stained glass artisan, pottery studio, second-hand books, old-school diner, and even an arcade.
Big arts in a small town
Any visit to Chemainus should include a viewing of the dozens of murals adorning building walls, highlighting historic moments of decades past. The motivation for the Chemainus Festival of Murals was to beautify the streets, and it coincided with the closure of the local sawmill in the early ‘80s. To counter the possible demise of the town following the shuttering of such an important business, the community set about sprucing up Chemainus.
Nowadays, the murals are an integral part of the town and continue to draw in visitors from near and far. Follow an interactive online map for information about the artwork, artists, and the stories they depict. Various galleries display local visual artists, and the performing arts are ever-present too. Theatre enthusiasts will want to time their visit to catch a production at the Chemainus Theatre Festival, yet another example of the vibrant arts life in this small town.
Get close to water
The Waterwheel Park is a central gathering spot between the old and new town, with a giant waterwheel replica, statues, carvings, and a dazzling view amidst a well-kept garden. For a deeper look at the history of the region, stop by the Chemainus Valley Museum. From here, stroll down to the waterfront beach parks, such as Kinsmen and Cook Beach Park, where divers have the opportunity to explore a submerged Boeing 737, the first artificial reef of its kind in the province.
Satisfy your cravings
For an easy bite, pop into Willow Street Cafe or the Owl’s Nest Bakery and Bistro, where you’ll be greeted with cosy interiors and tasty homemade goods. If you’re on the go, grab a sweet or savoury treat or a loaf of bread from the Island Pastry Haus or Chemainus Bakery. Meanwhile, if you’re looking for food with an international flair, don’t miss Thai Pinto, Invitation Indian Cuisine, or Sushi Kuni, or get your comfort food fix at one of the local pubs.
Slowing down in Crofton
Crofton has been steadily transforming from an industry town into a recreational holiday destination, and its small size and quiet surroundings make it a pleasant place to slow down. The streets around the harbour are home to the Crofton Old School House Museum, various amenities, and a couple of welcoming coffee shops and pubs. Among them you’ll find the Osborne Bay Pub where a regular influx of live music keeps the evenings animated.
With its vantage point overlooking the Salish Sea, you’re never too far from the water. The seawalk provides easy access from the harbour to various beach parks, where you can enjoy dark sand beaches and expansive views with little effort.
Whether your idea of a hike is a multi-kilometre excursion or a leisurely walk to the beach, there’s plenty to do at Osborne Bay Regional Park. Basic trails allow for a quick walk in the woods, whereas others involve technical climbing or mountain biking to the summit of Maple Mountain, or a longer trek to Maple Bay.
Where to stay
Considering just over 20 kilometres separate Ladysmith from Crofton, with Chemainus halfway in between, it’s easy to visit the three towns from a central location. There’s no shortage of inviting B&Bs, Airbnbs, hotels, and inns to make your stay comfortable and cosy, many with views of the water. Alternatively, a few campsites and RV resorts are available in the vicinity.
For a truly magical experience in Chemainus, check out The Cottage & Castle, located in a house from 1910. Hummingbird Gardens B&B offers a similar setting in a heritage home by a quiet beach on the outskirts of Ladysmith. If you’re travelling with a large group, Kiwi Cove Lodge has a dozen rooms set on a large waterfront property with kiwi vines.
How to get here
Coming from Victoria and the south, get to Crofton via a detour off the Trans-Canada highway as you come into Duncan. Chemainus is a bit over 10 kilometres to the north, just off the Trans-Canada highway, and Ladysmith is 10 kilometres further. From North Island, follow Highway 19 southbound until it merges with the Trans-Canada. You’ll reach Ladysmith first, followed by Chemainus, and shortly after, look for the turn-off to Crofton.
BC Ferries offers direct service from Crofton to Salt Spring Island, from which you can access the other Southern Gulf Islands. The terminal in Chemainus provides transport to Thetis and Penelakut Islands. Further north, Duke Point and Departure Bay terminals in Nanaimo service Vancouver’s Tsawwassen and Horseshoe Bay terminals, respectively.
Reach Ladysmith, Chemainus, and Crofton by air combined with a short drive. Maple Bay airport has Harbour Air flights to Salt Spring Island and Vancouver. Fly to and from several provincial and national destinations from Nanaimo and Victoria airports. If you’re coming from the U.S., flights from Seattle land in Victoria. Additionally, a couple of ferry routes connect ports in Washington state to Victoria.
The Cowichan Valley Regional Transit System is limited and serviced by BC Transit. The Island Link Bus provides transport to various towns and cities from Port Hardy to Victoria, with the closest stops in Nanaimo and Duncan.
Travelling Responsibly
Cowichan is home to the unceded and traditional territories of the Quw’utsun, Malahat, Ts’uubaa-asatx, Halalt, Penelakut, Stz’uminus, Lyackson, Pauquachin, Ditidaht & Pacheedaht Peoples who have stewarded these lands since time immemorial. The region is home to over 15 communities, each with a unique flair ready to welcome you. Cowichan also houses diverse wildlife with flourishing ecosystems. Ensure it remains so by treading carefully throughout your travels. Whether you’re hiking, camping, or going for a swim, respect the surrounding environment by leaving no trace. Keep a distance from animals and practice safety close to bodies of water.
